Thanks for buying a set of Flow Force Injectors! There are only a few things that stand between you and the power and performance of EV14 awesomeness. If any of these steps are confusing, or if you run into issues, please email me at nigel at flowforceinjectors dot com so I can help, and so I can improve this documentation for others.
The following are instructions for a 1990-2005 Mazda Miata. Other kits are largely similar.
- 4x EV14 injectors
- 4x Bottom cushions
- 4x Top hat fuel rail adapters
- 4x Top hat o-rings
- 4x Connectors
- 3x Fuel rail spacers
- 1x Dielectric grease
- 4x Fuel filters (not pictured)
To assemble the injector kit, take the bottom cushion (2) and slide it on to the injector on the end the fuel sprays out. Take a small amount of dielectric grease and apply it to the blue o-ring at the top of the injector, and the included top hat o-rings (4). Slide the top hat o-ring over the top of the top hat and into the machined groove. Drop a fuel filter, basket side first, into the top of the top hat. The bore hole has a taper to it, so the filter will rest somewhere between the very top and half way in. Slide the top hat over the top of the injector. Now, your fancy new injector should have the same basic dimensions as your stock injector. If that isn't the case, something has gone horribly wrong.
Follow the instructions in your shop manual to install these injectors. Once they have been assembled, just treat the rest of the process like you would with stock injectors. Be extra careful when you remove your fuel rail. The black plastic isolators are really easy to lose, and you need them for re-assembly. Pop a fuel rail spacer on each one.
When it comes to the connectors, if your car is older and/or higher mileage, there is probably some fretting corrosion in the connector, and you should clean the contacts on the female plugs on your wiring harness. There are various methods to do this, either mechanical (sticking something in there to scrape off any corrosion) or chemical (spray some contact cleaner in there). Either method is fine. Before plugging anything back in, apply a small amount of dielectric grease to both cavities of the female plugs on the included connectors, and on your wiring harness.
Almost all vehicles will require a tune, or a standalone fuel injection controller such as Megasquirt, Haltech, AEM EMS etc. It is highly recommended to have someone who really knows what they are doing do this part. If you are that person, you will need to know the dead times and flow rate.
Dead Times (Latency)
Below is the dead time table at 3 bar. for 4 and 5 bar, and for small pulsewidth settings, hop over to Injector Data. You will need to figure out what voltage your injectors are powered at and make the necessary calculations.
Example Dead Times for Miatas running Megasquirt
MS2 @ 3 bar
If you have a Mazda Miata running a Megasquirt 2 at 3 bar, you would input 1.12ms @ 13.2v with a 0.144ms/v battery voltage correction.
MS3 Basic @ 3 bar
- 1.12ms @ 13.2v
- 140.3% @ 11v
- 120.9% @ 12v
- 102.9% @ 13v
- 90.4% @ 14v
- 80.7% @ 15v
- 73.8% @ 16v
MS3 @ 4 bar
If you have a Miata running a Megasquirt 3 at 4 bar, your deadtime at 13.2V would be 1.261 and your voltage correction table would look like this:
The flow rate for each injector is on the included flow rate card (it will be something around 650cc/min). If you have lost your flow rate card, email me your serial numbers (they start with "F6" and are engraved into the injector body) and I'll let you know what the flow rates are.
Flow rates are measured at 3 bar (43.5psi) of fuel pressure. If your vehicle has a different fuel pressure, make sure you adjust for this! For example, a 640cc injector at 4bar of fuel pressure will flow at 739cc.
One more thing - If you have taken the time to get a great tune using these injectors, and you want to share what you learned with the world, I can put a link here to your blog or forum posts, or I can post it on the blog here. If you share this info, I will be forever grateful!